Our trip began in Quito, where we were picked up at the airport and transferred to Cafe Cultura, a sweet little hotel in the middle of downtown, where we spent two nights. The first event was a pleasant all day tour of the highlights of Quito. It included a visit to “The Center of the World”, a museum/monument erected right on the equator and an incredible gourmet lunch at Theatrum, one of the top restaurants in Quito.
The following morning we flew to the Galapagos Islands airport, where we were met by Juan Carlos, our guide/naturalist for the week, transported to the boat, and the real adventure began.
The Galapagos Islands are all about nature–unique animals, birds, fishes, plants, a naturalists dream. Sea lions were the stars. They were present at almost every site–often greeting us on the landing area. Their water frolics, playfulness of the cubs, lordliness of the bulls, nursing of the little ones, expressive eyes, and thorough pleasure in sunbathing made them seem incredibly human. The iguanas were miniature dragons–up close and personal. Birds everywhere, from the Darwin finches to blue-footed boobies, to frigate birds, to mocking birds–a bird lover’s paradise! Most impressive was their utter lack of fear of humans–allowing unique proximity. We visited two breeding stations where attempts are being made to bring back the giant tortoises emblematic of the Galapagos. We met lonesome George–the last of his species, and heard about his (so far unsuccessful) love life, as they are trying to have him fertilize some females of a closely related species.
Life under the surface, as viewed while snorkeling was unexpectedly impressive. The water was generally quite clear and the tropical fish colorful and abundant. Special highlights included swimming with sea turtles, white tipped sharks (4-7 ft.), sting and golden rays, and the occasional sea lion wandering through the area. We were always either close to shore or with the “panga” (a rubber dinghy with outboard motor) watchfully near in case anyone felt threatened. Juan Carlos usually accompanied us, identifying fish and bringing up star fish, shells, etc. from the bottom to demonstrate.
The typical day started with breakfast at 7:30, followed by a 1-2 hour shore excursion. Then would be snorkeling time for an hour or so. After lunch we would motor to the next visitation site, have a nice siesta, and a late afternoon shore excursion. After supper was free time for reading, games, or an early bed. Sometimes we had coffee and crackers with an early shore excursion to beat the heat or the other boats, followed by a later breakfast. During the night we would motor to the next site–a 1-7 hour journey, and anchor at dawn, ready for the next day.
Shore excursions were at specified visitor sites, with strict instructions to stay on the paths and stay 6 ft. from animals/birds (unless they approached us–which they sometimes did!). None was more than 1/2 mile in distance and most were flat, although the surface was often rocky and rough. We paused frequently as animals/birds/iguanas were spotted and as Juan Carlos explained what we were seeing as well as the history and significance of the species. Sun was hot and humidity high, so we tried to do the excursions early in am and late in pm when possible.
Our boat and home for the week was the Nemo II, a 72 ft. catamaran, which carries a crew of 7-–captain, first mate, cook, steward, engineer, deck hand, and the naturalist. It has seven cabins, each holding two people in rather small quarters, but with A/C, comfortable beds, good lighting, private bathroom with hand held shower, and hot water. Three bountiful and tasty meals were served each day, with snacks in between. (Juan Carlos warned us the first day that no one loses weight in the Galapagos!) Beer and wine were available for purchase. There was a central indoor dining area, a covered lounge area just aft of the dining room, and a large partially shaded upper deck for sitting or sunning. The panga was attached at the rear and used for all our shore excursions and snorkeling. Although it had sails, they were never up as we always motored from place to place at about 10 knots. The sea was quite calm and the boat very stable–only one episode of sea sickness among all of us the entire week!
After a week on the boat, the airport still rocked gently as we waited for our return flight amid considerable chaos. But we all made it back to Cafe Cultura for a last night before either returning to the US or extending the stay with visits in Ecuador or beyond.
It was quite a trip! And one I plan to repeat!
Larry