Travels With Larry

This is information about the Turkey trip we did in ‘04 - 6 of us. A grand time!

Several months ago, I had sent out information about a planned trip to Turkey. Since then I’ve been working with those who expressed interest to put the trip into final form. Below is detailed information about the trip. It is more focused on culture and history then on hiking, but there should be some nice walks. Enough from the initial group have signed up and paid their initial deposit to ensure the trip will take place (despite the recent bombings in Istanbul). This will be the “last call” for anyone else to sign on.

Dates: April 28 - May 12, 2004. These are the days in Turkey. Flights are typically overnight from the U.S. to Turkey and and the same day on return. So it means leaving the U.S. on the 27th, and returning on the 12th, although anyone may arrive early and stay later, if desired.

Guides - I originally heard about Lale and Tankut Aran when a friend took a trip they arranged and raved about it. My daughter, Alisa, has had the chance to meet them and I’ve had lots of email contact with them and have found them great to work with. They will be arranging the Turkish end of the trip through their company, SRM Travel. The actual guide for the trip will be Lale Morcol, assisted by a local guide for the hiking part of the trip. Here is what the Arans have to say about her. “Lale is a native of Istanbul and has an undergraduate degree on tourism from the Bosphorus University in Istanbul which is the first American college outside of America (under the name Robert College). During her years in the Bosphorus University, she also attended the Tour Guiding school of Ministry of Tourism for a degree in guiding. Lale is a professional guide since 1989. During all these years of guiding Lale led a variety of tours, from archeological trips to nature trips for primary school students. She has been leading tours for SRM for the past 2 years including the Europe Thourgh the Back Door tours. Tours she leads in nature are her favorite as she is also a curious nature observer. She is best known and preferred for her easy going nature, flexibility, friendliness and vast experience of traveling in Turkey.”

Itinerary:

Day 1 _Istanbul Meet our guide at the hotel for a welcome get together. Brief introduction of the itinerary. Walk to Blue Mosque and the Hippodrome if time permits. Walking: Light

Day 2 _Istanbul See the highlights of Istanbul walking in the old neighborhood. We will visit the Byzantine Cistern from 6th.C, Hagia Sophia, the museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts (Ibrahim Pasha Palace) and the Grand Bazaar. Free time to enjoy the bazaar. Walking; Moderate in the city about 5 hours

Day 3 _Istanbul Topkapi Palace, home of the Ottoman Sultans and seat for the government for over 400 years. Our visit includes the Harem and the Royal Treasury. In the afternoon we will take a boat ride up the Bosphorus strait. Free time to enjoy the Spice Market and the surrounding streets. Walking: Moderate in the city about 5 hours

Day 4 _Mustafapasha We will take a morning flight to Cappadocia. Upon arrival we will drive to the village of Mustafa Pasha and check into our pension. The village is under state preservation and we stay in a typical Cappadocian house that is 250 years old with its original frescoes. It is managed as a B&B by the owner. In the afternoon, enjoy a walk in the village guided by “Suleyman the Magnificient”, owner of the pension. Walking: Moderate about 4/5 hours, uneven terrain in and around the village

Day 5 _Mustafapasha Enjoy wonders of Cappadocia, the natural formations and the Goreme Open Air Museum (975 m). Meet a local family to learn more about the life in Cappadocia and have lunch with them. If time permits, go to a carpet workshop to learn more on the Turkish carpets. We will listen to locals play folk music during dinner at the pension (and dance with them!) Walking: Moderate about 4 hours, uneven terrain

Day 6 _Guzelyurt Hike through some of the most spectacular formations of the area in the valley of Kizilcukur and Gulludere to the village of Cavusin. From Cavusin we will hike to the Zelve Valley and Pasabag, impressive with its unusual formations. If time permits, visit village of Avanos. Late in the afternoon drive to Guzelyurt. Walking: Moderate to strenuous about 6 hours, uneven terrain

Day 7 _Guzelyurt Accompanied by herds of sheep and goats, we will head to out for the magnificient Monastery Valley formed by natural erosion. Over 50 churches and monasteries line the walls of this canyon that leads to the 6th century Red Church (1800 m) set in an impressive natural cirque with the Melendiz Mountains in the background. Then hike down to Guzelyurt. Walking: moderate to strenuous about 6 hours, uneven terrain

Day 8 _Antalya Drive to Antalya via Konya and Seydisehir. Visit the museum of the whirling dervishes in Konya. As we approach Antalya we will visit the 2. century Aspendos theater building, one of the best preserved in the world. We will stay in a fine pension in the old town, our hostess Hripsime cooks us dinner. Walking: light, long hours on the bus.

Day 9 _Cirali We will start the day with an excursion to the ancient city of Termassos, located on a mountain pass on the Taurus Mountains. In the afternoon we will drive on the coastline west to ancinet Phaselis. The site is located right on the water in the pine woods, and is very picturesque. Arrive in the village of Cirali on the Mediterranean coast, dinner and overnight in a bed & breakfast or village pension. Walking: light to moderate about 4 hours

Day 10 _Ulupinar At the foot of Tahtali mountain, we will start the day exploring the ancient site of Olympos, surrounded by wild fig trees and bayleaf bushes. After lunch, through the pine woods we will climb to Yanartas, the site of the permanent flame as a result of natural gas emissions. We will follow the Ulupinar river to the village (700 m.) known with the same name. Dinner and overnight at village homes. Walking: moderate to strenuous about 5 and a half hours

Day 11 _Altinayaka Today is the walk in nature. We are going up to 1600 m., through pine and cedar forests to the summer meadows of Ucoluk, where we see the wooden houses of the semi nomads of the Mediterranean. At the end of the day we will continue (drive) to Altinyaka for dinner and overnight. Walking: moderate to strenuous about 6, 6 and a half hours

Day 12 _Antalya Visit the ancinet city of Perge, to learn more about the history of the region. Back to Antalya for the Museum of Archeology, one of the very best in the country. Afternoon is free time to explore this Mediterranean town. Walking: light.

Day 13_Selcuk or Kusadasi. Today we drive to Selcuk (contemporary town of Ephesus) and on to the port town of Kusadasi via ancient Aphrodisias. The city of Aphrodisias was known in the ancient world as the city of fine arts and philosphy. Here we will discover the art appreciation of the locals, visit the outstanding stadium complex and the temple dedicated to the goddess Aphrodite. Walking, light with 6-7 hours driving

Day14_Ephesus to Istanbul Today we enjoy walking the streets of one of the most reputable ancient sites in the world, Ephesus. Once a glorious metropolis, Ephesus was the cpital city of the Asian Province of Rome and had a population of a quarter of a million. Late afternoon or evening flight to Istanbul - overnight in Istanbul.

Day 15 - tour over after breakfast.

Just as an FYI, according to Travelocity, it currently costs $818 in that time frame to travel nonstop from JFK to Istanbul on Delta. The cost is essentially the same out of Philly, via JFK, so the flight from Philly to JFK is thrown in for free. (The Delta flight arrives 10:15 am.)

Cost The cost of the trip will vary with the number of people going. The minimum number is 6 and that is the number of deposits I have currently. The cost of the trip per person, not including airfare to and from Turkey comes to $2050 per person for 6-9 people, $1950 for 10-14, and $1850 for 15-21.. This includes all lodging, all transportation within Turkey including the two flights, all but 6 meals, entrance fees, all tips except for hotel porters, but including guide and driver tips (which are usually extra). If we arrive and leave together, it includes airport transportation. As for singles, if a person chooses to have a single room, the supplement is $300. If a “single” is willing to share a room and no room-mate is available, there is no extra charge.

To me, Alaska tourism has always seemed to have two extremes. On the one hand there are the young backpackers out in the wilderness areas, challenging and enjoying nature, and then the cruise ship passengers passively viewing the sights. Since I’ve missed my chance as a youthful backpacker, I expected to eventually see Alaska from the deck of a floating hotel. But another alternative surfaced in the form of Kate Boor. I’ve known about Kate for almost two decades, as her parents and sister have been patients of mine for several decades. I had heard about, but never met, this adventurous daughter who was rafting wild rivers in the west, leading backpacking trips, and generally experiencing nature to its fullest. Recently her mom mentioned that Kate was in Alaska and was guiding trips for a number of large outfitters, such as Sobek Mountain travel. The proverbial light bulb lit up in my head and I wondered if she might be interested in putting together and leading an Alaska trip for me and my friends. She was!! And this trip was born.

Kate and her husband, Stan, live during the summer in Haines, Alaska, and spend the winter in Salt Lake City. They have started a small guiding company and contract with large outfitters to lead Alaska adventure trips–rafting, kayaking, hiking, etc. Kate was quite excited about working with me to put together her own trip. I told her I was looking for a trip with hiking as a focus, but time to experience the country, its people, and other attractions. She and I have been emailing for some time and we have come up with a tentative itinerary and pricing. In the process, I’ve learned a lot. First, Alaska is HUGE! Planning a trip to Alaska is not unlike planning a visit to “The American West”. There is lots and lots to see and a lot of territory to cover and we cant’ do it all! So we decided to concentrate on southeastern Alaska and the Yukon Territory of Canada–the area in which Kate lives and which she knows best. The trip will start and end in Juneau with the focus on a tour of the “Golden Circle”, Haines, Haines Junction, Whitehorse, and Skagway. The rest of Alaska will have to be explored before or after this trip or at another time. Second, I learned that Alaska is relatively expensive. The tourist season is short and the expense of building and maintaining a business has to be spread over 4 months, not 12. Third, it is beautiful and full of wildlife.

One of the nice parts about this kind of trip is that the dates and itinerary are not fixed. What Kate and I have put together is tentative and open to massaging to meet the time frame and interests of those seriously considering going along. We’ve decided to plan on 11 nights and 12 days (counting the days of arrival into and departure from Juneau). That could be shortened if people want to precede or follow the trip with visits to other parts of Alaska. Or it could be extended to 2 weeks, if participants would prefer a more in-depth look at the areas we plan to visit. Departure is tentatively set for the third week of August of ‘04. Kate says the weather is generally still good at that time, the tourists are thinning out, and she will be more available as most of her contracted trips will be finished.

ITINERARY

Aug 17, 2004 - Arrive Juneau. Optional activities depending on time of arrival. Flights from east coast generally arrive late afternoon. Stay at Goldbelt Hotel for three nights.

18-19 -in Juneau area. Variety of activities possible, including Pack Creek Bear Sanctuary, Mendenhall Glacier, Helicopter tours, Mt. Roberts Tramway, Alaska State Museum, etc. The only group trip I’ve planned and included in the cost is a day long cruise into Tracy Arm, great for wildlife and glacier viewing.

20 - Fly or take the ferry to Haines. Chilcot Guides Bald Eagle float trip in the afternoon. Three nights in Halsingland Hotel.

21-22 - in Haines area. One day for a hike to the top of Mr. Ripinsky. The other day for optional activities such as scenic flights, several shorter hikes, Sheldon Museum, or other attractions. A highlight will be a barbeque and horseshoes at the Boors’ house one evening.

23 - Using the Boors’ van, travel to Haines Junction, in the Yukon Territory of Canada, taking short walks along the way. Two nights in the Raven Motel.

24 - Hiking in the Haines Junction area. Dinner one evening at the Raven Motel restaurant is included. Kate says it is rated one of the top 10 restuarants in all of Canada!

25 - Take the van to Skagway, with overnight at Carcross Caribou Motel. Much of the time will be driving and enjoying the scenery, but perhaps some short “stretch your legs” hikes.

26 In Skagway at the MIle 0 B&B. Local hikes, various activities, including an optional trip on the Whitepass Railroad. Late in the afternoon on the 11th day take the ferry or flight to Juneau, so the last night is back in Juneau.

27 - Flight out. Flights to the east coast generally leave pretty early in the morning.

PRICE

The price went up $100 from my initial letter because some hotels raised their rates for 2004 and the inclusion of dinner at the Raven. For 10 or more participants (counting Nancy and me) the price is $1600 per person, double occupancy. It is $1750 for 8 or 9, and $1900 for 6 or 7. The single supplement is $200. There might be a price reduction if we go over 14 participants, depending on the cost of an extra car/van, more motel rooms, etc. I expect these prices to be fairly firm because aside from some motels in Canada, I don’t have exchange rate issues to worry about. However, if I’ve miscalculated or something comes up that increases the price, anyone can withdraw without penalty. For “singles”, I will either arrange for single rooms at an extra cost (to be determined) or match you with a same sex room-mate if possible. If none is available, the single supplement will have to be charged.

INCLUDED in the price
All transportation from Juneau and back to Juneau as outlined in the itinerary (not including optional excursions)
Services of a professional guide (Kate), except in Juneau, and all guide fees.
All hotels.
Tours as noted in the itinerary
At least 5 breakfasts, dinner at the Raven, and the Boor house barbeque.
Entry fees.

NOT INCLUDED in the price
Transportation at the beginning and end of the trip, to and from Juneau.
Airport transfers in Juneau. (Although if many of us are on the same flights I may be able to arrange something with a group discount)
Most meals (except as noted above)
Optional excursions.
Beverages and items of a personal nature.
Tips (I don’t think there will be many except for restaurants).

This is information about the Morocco trip we did in 2005.

I had a trip planned to Morocco, led by Hamish Brown, for the spring of 2003. With the (ill-advised!) invasion of Iraq looming we decided to cancel. It appears now that the tourist fall-out in terms of travel to Muslim countries has been far less than feared, so I have planned another trip to Morocco with Hamish for April 28 - May 12, 2005. It promises to be a fascinating trip in terms of natural beauty and immersion in Berber culture and Moroccan history. The itinerary Hamish has put together for this trip follows:
Thurs., April 28, 2005. Arrive Marrakech. Stay at Hotel Ali on the edge of the Medina. Well placed for all activities.

Fri. 29 - Marrakech day. Sites and sights. Hotel Ali buffet dinner of Moroccan dishes.
Sat. 30 - Minibus south to spend the morning at the exotic Asni souk (a weekly market). Walk on the Kik Plateau - great viewpoint, on to stay at the comfy Auberge Souktana. It is French run, good food.
Sun. May 1 - To Imlil, the base for the Boubkal massif. Walkabout. Night at a gite. (A gite is a small pension - usually family run.)
Mon. 2 - Walk over pass to refuge (a rough hostel) at Tachddirt. A 5 hours trek.
Tues. 3 - A fine pass to reach Oukaimeden ski resort. 5 hours trek. Chalet refuge.
Wed. 4 - Minibus down alpine road and up the Tizi n’ Tichka (a major pass) to Telout. See Glaoui palace and on to stay at a gite up the Ounila Valley.
Thurs. 5 - Enjoyable walk down the valley to Anmiter. Overnight in nomad tents of village house. Fine village archtecture.
Fri. 6 - Down the Tizi n’ Tichka again and east to Demnate and overnight at a charming gite by the Imi n Ifri (gorge/natural arch). Walkabout.
Sat. 7 - Scenic drive to the beautiful Bou Gumez valle. Gite.
Sun. 8 - Local (Tabant) souk visit agadir (a very pretty fortified granary) on hilltip and walkabout. Gite again.
Mon. 9 - In the minibus, out to Azilal and by the Bin Oudane lake and pass to Beni Mellal.
Tues. 10 - Westing and up into foothills to the fine Cascades d’Ouzzoud (finest waterfall in Morocco). Pleasant walking in the area of the gorge (rainbows!). Hotel.
Wed. 11 - Morning to Marrakech. Local lunch treat. Last chance to visit souks, etc. Eat out. Hotel Ali.
Thurs. 12 - Depart.

In the heading I stated “Morocco with Hamish Brown”. He is an amazing man, with multiple interests and talents, and very much in love with Morocco, its people, history, and culture. Below is some information about him that he sent me when we were doing the initial planning. In parenthesis are my explanations.

About him. “I’ve been wandering the Atlas (the mountain range in Morocco) since 1965, so have a unique knowledge of it. All the trips I do are one-off trips (which he defines as ‘a trip for a single occasion, not one repeated regularly or commercially’), and I do them as much for my satisfaction as for a commercial venture. I never advertise to the public. All word of mouth and very personal. A high proportion come back–one 17 times! I wrote the mountain bits for the Rough Guide to Morocco (the “Rough Guide” is Britain’s “Lonely Planet” equivilant in guide books) and most of the pictures are mine.” (The “Lonely Planet - Morocco” lists Hamish as a ssource for Atlas Mtn. maps.)

More about him, “I have led expeditions to places as diverse as Norway, Iceland, Ethiopia, Turkey, Corsica, Eastern Europe, the Alps, Andes, and Himalayas. In 1965, I spent three months in the Atlas Mountains and have been back ever since–a continuing love affair. I have interests in skiing, canoeing, sailing, tall ships, alpine flower-hunting, and ornithology, and am a book collector, story-teller, poet, artist, and cook. I have published over 100 articles in world wide magazines and was awarded an honorary D.Litt by St. Andrews University in 1997.”
About his philosophy: “Berber life and traditions (culture) are an important part of the trip. We fit in with them, not vice versa. The interest is in Morocco and its people. Trekkers who just want to tick off another country/trek are not of interest. Dress code and behavior is expected to comply.”

About photographic possibilities (I asked–naturally!!): “No worry photographically! I took 450+ pictures in my last 10 days in that area. Think of the film you’d need–and bring more!

About terrorism risk: “When the Gulf War (compliments of Bush, Sr.) blew up, I was in Morocco and people set to join me simply had their flight tickets returned/refunded. No airlines were flying into “Arab” countries. The economic effect was devastating and so uncalled for in Morocco. Any anti-American feeling tends to be expressed in Casablanca and Rabat, not Marrakech. Tourists are business and no one wants to damage themselves. In the Atlas the people wouldn’t know the difference between Americans and aborigines. I’m more worried about the flights being withdrawn and bookings lost than the actual personal risk. Morocco is not fanatically Muslim. I’ve groups planned from early April on to the end of June, so hope nothing does blow up, or if it does, it is over by then.” (He wrote this to me last Jan. when we were trying to decide what to do with the spring trip. He has since told me he ran a full schedule of trips last spring and summer during the Iraq invasion, with Brits, and had not a single problem. I should also add that we recently returned from a wonderful trip to Turkey, another Muslim country even more impacted by the Iraq war and encountered only warm hospitality.)

Cost: For my other trips, I get prices from hotels, restuarants, etc. and work out an “all-inclusive” cost. He operates differently. Basically there is an initial “booking fee” of $150, non-refundable, then each of us pays our own way, utilizing the discounts he gets through his multiple contacts, and splitting the costs of transportation. When we talked with him last Sept. he thought the total land cost would be about 500 British pounds, or $800-900 per person, depending on the exchange rate. A quick check on Travelocity yields a fare of $885 out of Newark to Marrakech on those dates.

Nancy and I met with Hamish while we were in Scotland last fall. He is quite a character! I think the trip would be a fascinating one if we did nothing more than sit around and chat with him. He showed us a shelf of books he has written (mostly on travel). And while we were in Scotland we were glancing through a magazine on Scotland and to our surprise found an article on the island of Mull–written by Hamish! I believe he supports himself largely through his writing. He looks to be in early to mid 60’s, so he won’t be doing this too much longer…
Hamish takes a maximum of 12 on his trips. I have 5 signed up and three on the very interested list already. So if you want to go along on this fascinating trip or want more info, get back to me soon.

Larry Bieber

This is information about the southern Utah trip, scheduled for Oct. of ‘09.

Greetings to all of you who expressed an interest in our southern Utah hiking trip,

Kate and I have been hard at it contacting hotels, rental car companies, etc. to firm up the trip details and a price. Here is the “Official Trip Offering”, I’ve repeated some of the info sent out in the original invite, just to keep everything in one email. Note the change in dates!

Overview: We decided to go in Oct., 2009, as the weather will be cooler, the crowds sparser, and the aspens and cottonwoods glowing. This area of southern Utah has been shaped by the Colorado and Green rivers and is geologically and scenically fascinating. We’ll spend most of our time in three very different national parks - Arches, Canyonlands, and Capital Reef. Although the focus will be on hiking, there is also much of historical interest which Kate will share with us. She has a lot of information and handouts on the local geology, outlaw history (Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid), impact of the Mormon immigrants, the Anazasi, local flora and fauna, etc. so we will have an (optional) lecture/discussion most evenings, but no final exam is planned! Although the focus of the trip will be hiking, there will be sharing of cultural information.

Our plan is to fly in and out of Salt Lake City and use rented vans to get around, staying in motels near the parks. Every day there will be some hiking, ranging from “leg stretchers” on the days with more driving, to hiking days where we will offer both moderate (5-8 miles) and challenging (8-12 miles) opportunities. Most hikes will have relatively little altitude gain and loss and the “airyness factor” (which I define as places where a slip could mean injury or death) is quite low. We will be no higher than 6.000 ft., so any shortness of breath you experience will be from exertion, not lack of oxygen in the air!

Dates - Oct. 10 - 21, 2009.

Tentative itinerary:

Oct. 10 - fly to Salt Lake City and overnight there.

10/11 - drive to Moab (4-5 hours) in our rented vans. Arrive in time for an afternoon hike in Islands of the Sky (Canyonlands NP) and enjoy the sunset. Overnight Moab hotel.

10/12 - 13 - hiking in Arches NP, overnights in Moab.

10/14 - an early start for some beautiful hikes in the lower portion of Canyonlands, then overnight in Monticello

10/15 - more hikes in Canyonlands. Overnight Monticello.

10/16 - drive to area of Capital Reef NP along the “Trail of the Ancients”. Along the way stop at Anazasi (ancient native Amercians) Museum in Blanding, and a walk in Natural Bridges National Monument. Overnight in local motel.

10/17-18 - Hiking in Capital Reef NP. Overnights same motel.

10/19 - drive to Goblin Valley for a beatiful hike, with overnight at Green Lake.

10/20 - drive to Salt Lake City with time in the afternoon/evening to explore the sights of the city.

10/21 flights home.

Our guide: Kate is a very experienced professional tour guide. I first heard about her from her parents, patients of mine, who told me about this adventurous daughter of theirs who travelled the world leading trips for Mountain Travel Sobek, one of the oldest and most respected adventure travel company. When I finally had a chance to meet her, she planned a wonderful trip to Alaska for us several years ago. On recently reconnecting with her, she suggested a trip to southern Utah, an area she loves and where she and her husband, Stan, hike regularly. (Kate and Stan live in Alaska for the summer where they run a raft outfitting company and Kate continues to lead trips for Mountain Travel Sobek. In the winter, they move to Salt Lake City, where Kate manages a ski resort restaurant and enjoys the slopes.)

Trip price - The expected price for the trip comes to $1,150 per person double occupancy. I say expected because the price could change slightly depending on the number of participants, the price of gas, the final lodging cost, etc. Most of you said you’d prefer to “sleep cheap” to keep the price down, so the motels I’ve contacted are Econolodge/Comfort Inn type of places - nothing fancy, but comfortable. The trip price will include transportation in our rented vans driven by Kate and me, hotels/motels including one in Salt Lake City at the beginning and end of the trip, a “pack your own” lunch (we’ll provide the basics - bread, lunch meat, PB&J, granola bars, etc.), Kate’s expert guidance and cultural information,, and coolers with cold drinks after the hikes. The trip price does NOT include - breakfasts (although most of the hotels offer a continental breakfast) and dinners (which will be on your own at local restaurants), transportation to and from Salt Lake City, tips, and items of a personal nature.

Deposit and cancellation policy - To sign up for the trip, send me a deposit of $500 per person, along with the sign-up/release of liability form attached. There are just 13 places open (not counting Kate, Nancy, and me) and 27 of you who have expressed interest. I will pretty much accept people into the trip as deposits are received. I’ll form a wait list from those whose letters I receive after the 13 spots are filled. In early August, I will firm up the price and send out a notice requesting the remainder due. Any “singles” I will match with a room-mate if possible. If you prefer to room alone or I can’t match you up, I’ll figure out a single supplement charge.

Any cancellations before August will result in a return of the deposit, minus $50. After I come up with the final price, if it is above $1150, you may cancel without penalty. Cancellations after final deposits are received will be subject to a $100 charge if I can replace you from a waiting list, or a $500 charge if I can’t (since prices are based on spreading the cost among the group).

I’m leaving Tues. for two weeks in the Ecuadorean highlands and the Galapagos. So I won’t be able to return any emails during that time frame.

I’m looking forward to hearing from you. This should be great hiking trip in a beautiful area with a lot of nice people!

Larry

This was sent out to invite people to join me for a Nicaragua trip. Sixteen people went on the trip.

Greetings to all of you getting a little tired of winter and anticipating a visit to a warm, welcoming country next year!

I recently returned from an “Adventure Trip” to Nicaragua sponsored by REI, the outfitting company. I chose to go there simply because it was a warm place to visit in early Dec. I had no great expectations and was pleasantly surprised. I found the country to be quite interesting, the food incredibly good, the activities enjoyable, and Gerald Duran, our guide, very knowledgable, helpful, and comfortably fluent in English. The idea of returning with a group of my friends kept recurring to me as we traveled and I found myself evaluating the various activities we participated in and considering how we could improve the experience for one of my group trips. Since my return, I’ve been communicating with Gerald and we’ve put together a tentative trip that I think could be both relaxing and fun. We’ve tried to provide something for everyone–relaxing time, exploration of colonial history, interesting hikes, great views, and some adventure for those who want it. It is a trip with options. If you want to try lake kayaking and a zip line canopy tour–it’s there! If you prefer to hang out by the pool or on the beach–it’s there, too. And the food is great and the company should be outstanding!!

The duration of the trip was a problem for a number of you, so we’ve cut some things and added the option of skipping the island of Omotope, which would shorten the trip by another two days.

Here’s the plan!

Itinerary

Jan. 7, Wed. - arrive Managua airport. Gerald and our bus will meet us and we head north to Leon, an old university town in the heart of volcano country. Along the way we’ll stop at a local restaurant to watch the cooking of quesillos (a delicious concoction of tortillas, cheese, and onions) and then sample them. We’ll enjoy a walking tour of Leon, including stops at an art museum, several colorful wall murals, and The Fortress, which was a jail and torture chamber during the Somoza era, and now a place celebrating Nicaraguan myths and legends.

1/8, Thurs. - two options. Those so inclined can take a bumpy jeep ride to Cerro Negro, a recently active volcano. A 45 minute hike brings us to the summit of the crater looking down on the steaming caldera. The voyage down takes about 5 minutes–skiing/skating/sliding down the volcanic scree. Whee!!! Those less enamored of volcanos have the morning free to explore the town of Leon, including several more museums. The volcano fans return for lunch and then we all depart for the highlands, with stops at bubbling mud pots and views of the Maribio chain of volcanoes. We’ll visit Jinotega, where there is a coffee co-op, 60% of whose owners are women farmers, and learn about the coffee making process. We’ll spend two nights at Hotel Selva Negra a renowned ecologically sensitive resort. www.selvanegra.com/en/Home-Resort.html.

1/9, Fri. - Activities at Selva Negra. There are numerous short hikes in the forest, horses for rent, coffee and flower farming, and good relaxation. Over 200 species of birds have been spotted there, so bring your binocs!

1/10, Sat. - starts with a several hour drive to Masaya Volcano National Park, the oldest national park in Nicaragua and the most visited tourist site in the country. There is an excellent visitor center with explanatory exhibits and the opportunity to walk in the area of a massive steaming crater. For those so inclined we can go underground into a lava tube cave with a few resident bats. Then drive on to Granada, the oldest colonial city in the continent, where we will spend three nights at the lovely Colonial Hotel, right off the main plaza. (www.nicaragua-vacations.com)

1/11, Sun. - begins with a (optional) watery adventure–kayaking among small islands along the shore of Lake Nicaragua, the second largest lake in Latin America. We’ll see birds, flowers, and a lot of verdant growth as we meander along narrow canals before reaching an old fortress. In the afternoon we’ll have a walking tour of Granada and free time to wander the town, splash in the two pools at the hotel, or visit the lake-side entertainment area. Dinner on your own (some people like to get away from the group for private time–Gerald will suggest restaurants.)

1/12, Mon. - is spent on Mombacho volcano which looms over the town of Granada. In the morning we will take an (optional!) zip line canopy tour in the cloud forest near the top of the mountain. After lunch, those seeking more activity can take the 4 hour Puma trail at the top of the mountain and those not so inclined can return to the peace and quiet of the hotel pools.

1/13, Tues. Board the bus for a several hour drive to San Juan del Sur, the Pacific coastal town where we’ll spend the next several nights at the Pelican Eyes resort, described by a guidebook as, “one of the most gorgeous and creative upscale accommodations in the country.” (See www.piedrasyolas.com). Satieted by lunch in their poolside gourmet restaurant, the afternoon is free to enjoy their three pools, sunbathe at the sweeping half-moon beach, or explore the town. Dinner is at a beachside restuarant featuring delicious grilled shrimp and lobster.

1/14, Wed. - features an all day sailing trip in the Pelican Eyes yacht to an isolated beach where we enjoy a barbecue of fish (if we catch any on the way there) or chicken (if we don’t!). We’ll be back at the hotel in time to catch the Pacific sunset. Dinner on your own (if you are still hungry after the bounteous lunch barbeque).

1/15, Thurs. - begins with a bumpy bus ride to San Jorge and smooth ferry ride to Omotope, a twin volcanoed island in Lake Nicaragua where we spend the next two nights. The afternoon could include a horseback or bike ride to the “Eye of Water” a spring fed swimming hole. It might also include an hour long nature walk at the Green Lagoon (Charco Verde), or simply relaxing at the beach.

1/16, Fri. - drive to the base of the Maderas Volcano and an easy 3 hour round trip hike up the side of the mountain to the 180 ft. San Ramon waterfall. Afternoon free to lounge on the beach.

1/17, Sat. Catch the early ferry to San Jorge, and board our bus. The first stop is at a pottery where we watch the craftsmen at work and can purchase their creations. An hour at the Masaya craft market will give us an opportunity to stock up on local wares before we arrive at the Montebelli private reserve, a bird watching haven, where we’ll spend the night. The afternoon is spent birdwatching with an expert guide. Gerald says it is not unusual to see 35-50 varieties of birds.

1/18, Sun. - Bus to airport and home.

Shortened option

1/15 Thurs. Continue on the bus (after dropping those going to Omotope off at the ferry) to the pottery and then on to the Masaya craft market. Then to Managua for an overnight stay at a hotel which offers transportation to the airport.

1/16 Fri. Bus to airport and home.

You are welcome to arrive early or depart later if you’d like to do more exploration of Nicaragua on your own. Gerald would be happy to help with suggestions and arrangements. Or you might want to head north to Honduras or south to Costa Rica to see more of Central America.

Cost

The expected cost of the trip is $1300 per person, double occupancy. This includes all transportation in Nicaragua, all hotels, all guides, all listed activities, all meals except two dinners, and bottled water, soda, beer, or glasses of wine with the meals. It does not include airfare to Nicaragua, souvenirs, guide tips, cocktails or bottles of wine at meals, and two dinners on your own. I say “expected cost” because a number of the hotels were unable to give me rates for 2009 and Gerald says the inflation rate is 13% in Nicaragua, so prices could well go up for 2009. I will send out a final price by Oct. 1, and ask for final payment at that time. For those taking the shortened option the price will drop $100.

Sign up and deposit

Attached is a sign-up sheet. If you’d like to go on the trip, please fill it out and return it to me with a deposit of $250 per person. My address is Larry Bieber, 566 Stehman Church Rd., Millersville, Pa. 17551.

Cancellation policy

If you cancel before Oct. 1, I’ll return $150 of your deposit. If by Oct. 1, I’ve had to raise the price above $1400 per person, you may cancel without penalty. If you cancel after final payment, I’ll return what I can (not all hotels will give refunds), minus a $100 charge.

That’s the deal. Who is going to join me in Nicaragua???

Your travel loving friend,

Larry

P.S. Here is some additional information about Nicaragua, for those interested. It is a poor country, devastated by years of civil war and natural disasters. The Somoza years from 1937-79 subjugated the country to decades of corrupt, cruel dictatorships. That era ended with a civil war won by the Sandinistas who promptly alienated Reagan by turning to Russia and Cuba for support, resulting the the Contras debacle. That ugly civil war collapsed with a peace agreement and an elected president, Violeta Chamorro, whose 5 year term marked a high point in Nicaraguan politics with reconciliation, development of democratic processes, and foreign investment. Unfortunately the next president proved corrupt and political gridlock ensued. Recent fair elections, though, have returned the Sandinista party and their leader, Daniel Ortega, to power and he has promised a much less radical approach to government. As if all that political turmoil was not enough, the country was pummeled by Hurricane Mitch in 1998, a category 5 hurricane considered the strongest storm in recorded weather history. Crops were ruined and almost all the bridges on the Pan-American highway, the main artery of the country, were washed out. But the Nicaraguans are a proud and tencious people. They are coming back. Shade grown, ecologically correct coffee is becoming a major export crop. Textile factories are being built, and a nascent tourist industry is developing.

Many times we heard or read the phrase, “The next Costa Rica”. It may be–but it is 20-30 years away–which to me is a huge plus! Sightings of other tourists were relatively infrequent. Adventurous backpackers have been visiting for years, but the kind of mass tourism “enjoyed” by Costa Rica is decades away. Natives were reserved, but friendly. I didn’t sense any resentment of the rich foreigner gawking at their lives. We weren’t hassled by youth pressing their “services’ on us or kids asking for candy. The country is very much the way it is–not a place designed to attract the tourist. One downside is that the roads are bad. Many are not paved and those that are tend to sport a bumper crop of potholes. There are relatively few tourist quality hotels and restaurants–but Gerald knew them all!! And they are incredibly inexpensive. The hotels we stayed in cost 30-50% of what a comparable quality place would cost in the US and excellent meals went for $6-8. In short, it is a country just beginning to develop its potential as a tourist destination, which means no crowds, fewer options, a welcoming people, and amazingly low cost.

Here’s the plan for the April, 2008 trip.

Arrival - you will be met at the airport and transferred to Cafe Cultura, our hotel. Dinner is on your own, although many of us will be arriving just in time to fall into bed. There are a number of nice restaurants not far from the hotel. Turn right out of the hotel, left on the first street and just keep walking and a variety of restaurnts will appear in the next 2-8 blocks. The hotel restaurant serves dinner as well.

Wed. City Tour. The bus and guide will pick us up at the hotel. This will include areas of historical interest, plazas, churches, museums, etc., plus a visit to Mitad del Mundo (”middle of the earth”), a monument at the equator with a fascinating ethnological museum about Ecuador’s indiginous population. A high point will be a marvelous gourmet lunch at Theatrum, said by some guide books to be serving the best food in Quito. Overnight Cafe Cultura.

Thursday After breakfast, drive to the CLOUD FOREST, on the way to the coast. Arrive in MINDO aprox. 10:30 and visit the MARIPOSARIO (a butterfly farm), with a large variety of butterflies and hummingbirds. The guide will direct us to a good lunch spot (price not included). On the way back visit an archeological place, TULIPE, where we can appreciate LA PISCINA DEL YUMBO. Yumbos is an aboriginal culture with many years of history. Return to Quito. Unfortunately the Cafe Cultura is fully booked that night, so Monica has found us rooms at Hotel Antinea, which looks pretty nice from its website. ( www.hotelantinea.com)

Friday, leave after breakfast for CALDERON, to see the masapan figures. Then drive to GUALLABAMBA to taste chirimoya, a delicious fruit typical of this region. Continue on to a very different Mitad del Mundo but stop on the way to Cayambe to taste dulce de leche and queso de hoja y viscochos. Then to Pto Lago in time for lunch at HACIENDA PINSAQUI. Continue on to San Antonio de Ibarra and Peguche waterfalls. Ovenight at Puerto Lago hotel, right on the shore of the lake (dinner included). (www.puertolago.com.)

Saturday, Up at 05:30 and drive to the ANIMAL MARKET, where the indigenous people trade a variety of animals, including cows, horses, lambs, pigs, etc. Then, after breakfast we visit the huge craft market at MERCADO DE PONCHOS where we will stay about 2 hours. (The guide books recommend getting there early before the tourist buses arrive from Quito.) Next on to COTACAHI for lunch, then drive to COTACACHI -CAYAPAS ecological reserve to see the lagoon and the volcano. Back to Quito and Cafe Cultura for the night.

Sunday - pickup at hotel, transport to airport for flight to Galapagos. We go through immigration where we pay our $100 each (cash American dollars) entrance fee and a new $10 transit fee (neither fee included in trip price). Then bus to the harbor where we board the Nemo II, our own private catamaran for the week. I’ve copied and pasted the itinerary below.

Sunday: Arrival to the airport in Baltra Island - visit to Bachas Beach

Monday: Visit to Bartholomew Island and Sombrero Chino in the afternoon

Tuesday: In the morning visit to Breeding center in Isabela Island - in the afternoon visit to Tintoreras Lagoon

Wednesday: Arrival to Floreana Island, in the morning visit to Post Office Bay and in the afternoon visit to Punta Cormorant

Thursday: Arrival to Espanola Island, in the morning visit to Gardner Bay and in the afternoon visit to Punta Suarez

Friday: In the morning visit to Santa Fe Island and in the afternoon visit to Charles Darwin Station in Puerto Ayora (Santa Cruz Island)

Saturday: In the morning visit to South Plazas Island and in the afternoon visit to North Seymour Island

Sunday: In the morning visit to Caleta Tortuga and transfer to the airport in Baltra.

April 27 return to Quito, airport pickup and transport to Cafe Cultura for another night.

April 28 - depart Quito for home. The guidebooks talk about a $25 each departure tax payable in cash at the airport, but last year we discovered it had been included in the ticket price. Best keep $25 in reserve, just in case.

For those of you who would like a map outlining our route, I found one at http://www.eqtouring.com/pages/nemoII.html#

Boat life: One of the reasons for choosing the Nemo II is that as a catamaran it is more roomy and stable than the typical Galapagos boat, but it is still a boat and will seem cramped compared to hotel rooms. All have private toilets and tiny shower. For those of you who want to see the outline of the boat, I found one at http://www.southernexplorations.com/galapagos-BoatNemoII.htm (but the pictures are of Nemo I.)

A typical day starts with breakfast, then off for the morning tour. Occasionally we had coffee and a snack then an early morning tour, followed by breakfast if we wanted to “beat the rush” at popular sites. Lunch is back on the boat, followed by siesta while the boat travels to the next spot. The afternoon walk is at a different area. Dinner is on the boat, followed by whatever evening entertainment we care to provide. The guide will outline the plans for the next day. During the night, the motors start up and the boat travels to the next island for next day’s tour. We usually snorkeled late morning and again mid-afternoon for an hour or so, but there were times the water was too choppy and we couldn’t. Diving may be available at an extra cost.

All food and drinks are provided on the boat, and are tasty and plentiful. (It will take a lot of restraint not to gain weight on this trip!) Drinking water is free, constantly available, and is the only food/beverage you can take with you on the island excursions. Sodas, beer, and wine are available for purchase on the boat - honor system. You can bring your own wine purchased in Quito and on the Friday shore excursion there are several wine shops if you want to expand your options beyond the boat’s obviously limited “wine cellar”.

Evenings are pretty much up to us and I expect for most of us it will be early to bed. They have a CD player and DVD with TV on board. We can bring our own CDs and DVDs. I’ll bring some cards–I believe there are some bridge players among us???

Those of you who have travelled with me before know that I generally pack a lot of activities into each day and there is not a lot of “down” time. This trip is different. There is a lot of time to just relax on the boat. Last year I mentally looked at the boat as just the means of getting us from one activity to another. This time I’m looking at the trip as a peaceful time on the boat, with some fascinating activities to liven up each day. I realized that people pay good money to just cruise on a yacht for a week–and we get to enjoy that experience, PLUS see all the animals, fish, birds, etc.!!! So plan on relaxing. One thing the Nemo II lacks is really comfortable “hang out” space. The trampoline between the hulls at the bow is soft, but in direct sun most of the time. The upper deck is nicely shaded and has some wooden chairs, but we often just lounged on the deck, which got a bit hard after a while. One thing to consider bringing would be a short foam mat, or a little air mattress, just to make the deck a bit softer for our butts (not that most of us don’t have enough padding there already!).

Electricity on the boat and in Ecuador is 110 v., the same as the US.

The dress code is VERY CASUAL with T-shirts, shorts, bare feet or sandals on the boat, and one pair of long pants and a windbreaker for cool evenings. (The only black ties you’ll see are on the penguins and the steward when he dresses up.) There are no laundry facilities. Fresh water is limited so washing clothing is discouraged. They don’t want sand from the shore brought on the boat, so you’ll be asked to remove your excursion footware while on the boat.

There will be lots of time for snorkeling and that is one of the highlights–seing the tropical fish, the sea lions, turtles, etc. Even if you’ve never snorkeled before, you’ll want to try it. Snorkeling gear is provided on the boat at no charge. You can bring your own if you wish, especially if you have prescription goggles. Because of the Humboldt current coming up from Antarctica, the water is surprisingly cold (75-80 degrees). I didn’t have any problem with the cold, but if you chill easily you might want to bring a “shorty wet suit”, which is one piece, 3 mm. in thickness, and covers only the upper arms and legs. I don’t know if any of you are into diving, but if you are, the Nemo II has diving equipment available for rent. I understand that with an extra payment (it was $75) one can do an introductory dive with no previous training or certifcation, and I plan to give it a try.

The twice daily expeditions are via the “panga”, a rubberized dinghy and are led by our guide/naturalist. I’ve been promised that Juan Carlos, who was our guide last year will again guide us. He is great!!! None of the walks are very strenuous and they typically last 1-2 hours. WE MUST STAY ON THE TRAILS AND STAY WITH THE GROUP! Some landings are “wet”, ie we jump overboard into waist deep water and wade ashore. Others are “dry”, i.e. bumping up against a rock or pier and clambering out. Some trails are over rough lava, which can be quite sharp. TEVAs make excellent footware as they can get wet and provide good solid soles to protect against sharp edges. Old sneakers or walking shoes can also work, although they will get wet on wet landings. You’ll want a day pack for camera, a folding umbrella, sun screen, etc.

It should be a great trip!!!

There are a wide variety of options for hiking/cultural activities in Ecuador. Below is one 5 day trip package put together by Latintours, the group that I work with for the Galapagos trip. I present it to give an idea of what is available–not to say that this exactly is what we would do.

Day 1 Leave from Quito after breakfast and travel to the North , stopping at the village of Calderon, famous for masapan figures, our next stop Oyocoto trails for an acclimatization hike along arid scenic terrain , lunch and transfer to Hacienda Guachala , one of the world´s oldest farm.

Day 2 After breakfast we will drive to the area of Quito Loma here we find remains of pre incan ruins and hike along the paramo grasslands with an altitude approx 3000 m where after a two hour hike we will drive to the small village of Oyacachi. This was once a very important trading region between the highlands and the jungle. Night Hacienda Guachala.

Day 3 . This day we will hike around the active volcanic crater lake of Cuicocha which will lead us to 3500m for approximately 3-4 hours following the rim of the crater where we admire the great views of the deep blue lake. Night at Hacienda Pinsaqui.

Day 4 This day we will visit the Otavalo market ,The Otavalo culture are famous all around the world for their folk music ,weaving and trading products from other regions and walk around the Peguche waterfall. Night at Hacienda Pinsaqui.Visit to ÑANDAMAÑACHI HOUSE. Visit San Antonio de Ibarra.

Day 5 Drive to area of Mojanda, where we will hike Fuya Fuya approx 3-4 hours, taking us to the summit at an altitude approx 4200 m. Great views of lake and paramo grasslands. Return to Quito.

Our trip began in Quito, where we were picked up at the airport and transferred to Cafe Cultura, a sweet little hotel in the middle of downtown, where we spent two nights. The first event was a pleasant all day tour of the highlights of Quito. It included a visit to “The Center of the World”, a museum/monument erected right on the equator and an incredible gourmet lunch at Theatrum, one of the top restaurants in Quito.

The following morning we flew to the Galapagos Islands airport, where we were met by Juan Carlos, our guide/naturalist for the week, transported to the boat, and the real adventure began.

The Galapagos Islands are all about nature–unique animals, birds, fishes, plants, a naturalists dream. Sea lions were the stars. They were present at almost every site–often greeting us on the landing area. Their water frolics, playfulness of the cubs, lordliness of the bulls, nursing of the little ones, expressive eyes, and thorough pleasure in sunbathing made them seem incredibly human. The iguanas were miniature dragons–up close and personal. Birds everywhere, from the Darwin finches to blue-footed boobies, to frigate birds, to mocking birds–a bird lover’s paradise! Most impressive was their utter lack of fear of humans–allowing unique proximity. We visited two breeding stations where attempts are being made to bring back the giant tortoises emblematic of the Galapagos. We met lonesome George–the last of his species, and heard about his (so far unsuccessful) love life, as they are trying to have him fertilize some females of a closely related species.

Life under the surface, as viewed while snorkeling was unexpectedly impressive. The water was generally quite clear and the tropical fish colorful and abundant. Special highlights included swimming with sea turtles, white tipped sharks (4-7 ft.), sting and golden rays, and the occasional sea lion wandering through the area. We were always either close to shore or with the “panga” (a rubber dinghy with outboard motor) watchfully near in case anyone felt threatened. Juan Carlos usually accompanied us, identifying fish and bringing up star fish, shells, etc. from the bottom to demonstrate.

The typical day started with breakfast at 7:30, followed by a 1-2 hour shore excursion. Then would be snorkeling time for an hour or so. After lunch we would motor to the next visitation site, have a nice siesta, and a late afternoon shore excursion. After supper was free time for reading, games, or an early bed. Sometimes we had coffee and crackers with an early shore excursion to beat the heat or the other boats, followed by a later breakfast. During the night we would motor to the next site–a 1-7 hour journey, and anchor at dawn, ready for the next day.

Shore excursions were at specified visitor sites, with strict instructions to stay on the paths and stay 6 ft. from animals/birds (unless they approached us–which they sometimes did!). None was more than 1/2 mile in distance and most were flat, although the surface was often rocky and rough. We paused frequently as animals/birds/iguanas were spotted and as Juan Carlos explained what we were seeing as well as the history and significance of the species. Sun was hot and humidity high, so we tried to do the excursions early in am and late in pm when possible.

Our boat and home for the week was the Nemo II, a 72 ft. catamaran, which carries a crew of 7-–captain, first mate, cook, steward, engineer, deck hand, and the naturalist. It has seven cabins, each holding two people in rather small quarters, but with A/C, comfortable beds, good lighting, private bathroom with hand held shower, and hot water. Three bountiful and tasty meals were served each day, with snacks in between. (Juan Carlos warned us the first day that no one loses weight in the Galapagos!) Beer and wine were available for purchase. There was a central indoor dining area, a covered lounge area just aft of the dining room, and a large partially shaded upper deck for sitting or sunning. The panga was attached at the rear and used for all our shore excursions and snorkeling. Although it had sails, they were never up as we always motored from place to place at about 10 knots. The sea was quite calm and the boat very stable–only one episode of sea sickness among all of us the entire week!

After a week on the boat, the airport still rocked gently as we waited for our return flight amid considerable chaos. But we all made it back to Cafe Cultura for a last night before either returning to the US or extending the stay with visits in Ecuador or beyond.

It was quite a trip! And one I plan to repeat!

Larry

Greetings to all my travel friends!

I had sent out preliminary information on this trip months ago and have since been working with those who expressed interest to shape it. Here is the trip we have come up with. It looks like a great one and I’d love to have you join me!

Norway was probably not on your radar screen as a hiking destination. Cruising the fjords, yes. But hiking??? The Norwegians themselves are avid hikers and Europeans enjoy exploring Norway’s beauties on foot. But we Americans don’t know much about it. So let me tell you. It is a land of rugged beauty. The fjords are emblematic of that. The landsape is filled with deep valleys, steep mountains, rushing streams, and placid lakes. Snow covers much of the land in the winter and will be still melting when we are there in early July so there are many, many waterfalls–from roaring displays of majestic power to wispy slivers of water disappearing into wind-blown spray. On my previous trip, at one point, I counted 32 waterfalls surrounding us, cascading down from the high plateaus above. Quoting from The Rough Guide to Norway, “In a tamed and heavily populated continent, Norway remains a wilderness outpost. Everything here is on a grand scale, with some of Europe’s finest and wildest land- and sea-scapes. Behind the rough and rocky coast are great mountain ranges, harsh upland plateaus, plunging river valleys, rippling glaciers, deep forests, and, most famously, the mighty fjords which gash inland.”

The trip is set for July 3-13, 2007. It will start and end in Oslo and include time to explore its museums and cultural sites. We’ll use buses, trains, ferries, and our feet to travel around. Most of our nights outside of Oslo will be spent in basic but quite comfortable lodges run by the Norwegian Hiking Association. Some have private rooms, others have more dormitory style sleeping arrangements (up to 6 per room). Most have shared baths and one has outdoor toilets. Breakfast, dinners, and picnic lunches are provided and I recall them as tasty and filling, but not gourmet.

The hikes will all be day hikes, with no camping or backpacking. The most strenuous (and most beautiful!) hike is a 14 mile jaunt down a valley, dropping about 2500 ft. On the hiking days, there will be two options listed - M for moderate, and C for Challenging. The challenging hikes are described in more detail because they follow a hiking route defined by the Norwegian hiking association. The trails are rocky and uneven, much like the Appalachian trail, and could be muddy or even snow covered in stretches. The moderate hikes are less well-defined as they will often involve exploring the area around the lodges, with distances varying based on the interest of those doing it. Each hiking day you will carry just your daypack, with lunch, raingear, camera, etc. Our trip luggage is transported for us between lodges. The weather is not always the greatest–expect to see some rain. But there will be lots of daylight–at that time of the year the days are blissfully long.

The most important person on the trip is Gerd Brunsvold, or guide. Gerd is a social worker by trade but loves to hike and has used her vacation time to guide trips for 10 years, including the one I went on 8 years ago. Her English is excellent and her knowledge of her country and its customs is extensive. I enjoyed her company on my previous trip and I know you will too. Her niece, Astrid, will accompany us, leading most of the challenging hikes. Astrid is a physical therapist by training with extensive hiking experience, including the summit of Kilmanjaro. Gerd’s husband, Dick, may join us for part of the trip.

The hotels in Oslo and Bergen will be pleasant tourist hotels. The lodges in the hiking portion are uniquely set up just for hikers. They provide simple, but comfortable, accommodations for exploring Norway’s natural beauty. Rooms are mostly dormitory style, with 4-6 people per room and shared bathrooms (although doubles may be available since the lodges are likely not to be full this early in the season). Each has a lounge and a dining area, with beer and wine available for purchase. Tasty, filling food is provided for dinner, a big breakfast starts the hiking day, and fixings for lunches are put out so each can pack their own lunch (don’t miss the pickled herring!).

Itinerary

July 2 - depart US. (You can certainly leave earlier for some time in Norway on your own prior to the group trip.)

7/3 - Arrive Oslo (Icelandair 12:20 pm, Newark 9:50 am) Transfer to hotel. Spend the afternoon gently exploring Oslo on foot, perhaps to the seaside fortress, a stroll down the main street, and coffee at a streetside cafe. One goal is to simply stay awake! Overnight SAS Radisson.

7/4 - Using the Oslo Pass, and with Gerd as our guide, explore Oslo!! A possible route would be a walk along the docks to the ferry to Museum Peninsula, Bygdoy. There are no fewer than 5 museums there! Gerd suggests a half day, with time to explore the Kon-Tiki Museum, displaying the balsa wood raft Thor Heyerdahl used to sail from Peru to Polynesia, the Maritime Museum with all kinds of maritime artifacts, and the Folksmuseum, with exhibits of folk life in the 17th to 19th centuries. We might also check out the Frammuseum which features Amundsen’s ship which made the first sailing of the Northwest Passage, or the Vikingship Museum which displays a trio of 9th century Viking ships. The afternoon could include the Munch museum, with its incredible collection of art, a stroll through the amazing statuary of the Vigeland Park with a drink at an outdoor cafe, or more time on the Peninsula. In the evening we’ll have a special treat. Gerd will arrange to have some of her English speaking Norwegian friends join us for dinner, giving us a chance to meet and interact with local people and learn more about their amazing country.

7/5 - Our bus picks us up at the hotel and we travel to Torpo to see the Stave church built in 1150 (Norway is famous for its stave, or wooden, churches). It has paintings dating to 1300. Lunch along the way and perhaps a short walk, then on to Tovikan, where the bus drops us off for the 1 1/2 hour hike in to the lodge at Iungsdalen. We are now in the starkly beautful highlands at about 5,000 ft, well above tree level (which is just 3300 ft.in this latitude!!), with snow in the hollows, and abundant waterfalls from snow melt on the high plateaus. Dinner and night at the lodge there (outdoor toilets, indoor hot showers).

7/6. A “warm-up” day of exploration in the Iungsdalen area. This will be a chance to check out your equipment, protect potential blisters, and get a sense of what the hiking is like in the Norse highlands. Overnight again at Iungsdalen lodge.

7/7 C. - A spectacular and challenging hike, beginning with a steep climb up about 1700 ft. to a pass, then across the highlands, down about 2000 ft. finishing with a boat ride across a lake to Raggsteindalen. It will take us about 9 hours, with breaks. M. - explore the area around Iungsdalen and its lovely lake, then by boat across the lake and bus to Raggsteindalen where you greet the exhausted C-hikers as they stumble in. Dinner and overnight at the Raggsteindalen lodge, where a private double with bathroom is available for a small additional charge.

7/8 C. - A lovely day of hiking through the Norse highlands. The first section is 4 hours and leads us to Steinbergdalen. From there to Osterbo is 5 hours and includes a hike up a steep hillside then a walk along a ridge with excellent views. The total elevation change is about a 1200 ft. drop, but there are a lot of ups and downs not counted in that total! M. - Take the bus to Steinbergdalen and join the other hikers on the same trail to the lodge at Osterbo. Dinner and overnight at Osterbo.

7/9. - C - The famous Aurlandstal hike to Vassbygdi, (this hike was the high point of my trip in ‘99). We start at 3000 ft., and descend to 300 ft. through a lush green valley, quite a contrast from the stark landscape of earlier days. It takes about 8-9 hours. The distance is 14 miles and (quoting from the Rough Guide to Norway) “incorporates an extravagant range of scenery, from upland plateau to deep ravines. It is strikingly beautiful.” M. - explore the area around Osterbo, then catch the bus for Aurland and explore the village there. When the C.- hikers arrive, we board a public bus to Flam and hop on the famous Flam railroad. Quoting again from the Rough Guide, “Plummeting 900 metres down the Flamsdal valley to Flam, this 50 minute, 20 km. ride is not to be missed under any circumstances.” (We’ll be going UP the valley, but the views are the same!) Dinner and overnight at Hotel Vatnehalsen (private rooms and baths).

7/10. Free day! Your can spend the day giving those tired feet a break, wander around the gorgeous countryside (which is what I did), or take the train to Voss. Voss is a 40 minute train ride away (cost not included in trip price) and has an attractive lakeside setting ringed by snow capped hills, with a lot of tourist attractions and a 13th century church. Dinner and overnight at the hotel.

7/11. C.and M. - Hike from the hotel down the old road to Flam. It is a beautiful valley with waterfalls always in view, cascading down from the mountains around. For those wanting a little less exertion, take the Flam train part way to Berekvam and walk the rest of the way down. In Flam catch the fast ferry for a beautiful trip through narrow fjords to Gudvangen. There our bus meets us for a spectacular ride to Bergen. After a quick shower, we’ll enjoy a “farewell dinner” together and settle in at a cozy hotel.

7/12. Explore Bergen. This was a vital Hanseatic port in the 14th century and still has remnants of those ancient times. I remember the incredible variety of shapes and smells of the fish market and a pleasant ride up the funicular to Mount Floyen followed by a walk through the extensive park there with remarkable views over Bergen and the surrounding islands and inlets. For those heading back to Oslo, the train leaves at 4 pm and arrives at 10:30 pm (probably just getting dark!). Overnight Oslo hotel.

7/13. Depart for the US. The Newark flight leaves 11:30 am, and the Icelandair flight at 2:45 pm, giving ample time for some last minute shopping or exploration. Of course, you are welcome to linger in Norway for your own explorations.

Trip extension - This for those who would like to experience a cruise ship-like ride up the fjord-filled Norwegian coast. July 12 ends boarding the “Finnmarken” at 8 pm. 7/13 is spent on the ship, watching the coast of Norway slip by as the boat heads north, stopping at several small towns, and a side trip into the famous Geiranger fjord. On 7/14, disembark at Trondheim around 8:15 am, and have the morning to explore that city before catching the train at 2:45 pm for the trip back to Oslo. The colossal cathedral there is the largest medieval building in all of Norway, dates back to the 13th century, and has been the traditional burial site for royalty and the site of all coronations since 1814. Overnight at the Oslo hotel and board flights for home on 7/15. I called the ferry line (212-319-1300) and learned that the price per person for the two nights on board the Finnmarken from Bergen to Trondheim would be $482 for an outside cabin with porthole, $517 for an outside cabin with window, and $500 for an inside single. Meals are not included but restaurants serve all the food you need on a cash basis. Go to http://www.hurtigruten.co.uk/index.asp for more info about this remarkable ferry system. There is an additional cost of about $15 for the extra train fare from Trondheim to Oslo compared to Bergen/Oslo.

Flights - These are arranged on your own. If we have 10 or more leaving from the same city, I might be able to get a 5-10% discount. My quick check showed a direct flight on Continental from Newark to Oslo for $989, from BWI on Icelandair with a stop in Rekjavik for $883. (For those of you with memories of our youth when Icelandair was the hippie’s way of getting to Europe, all that has changed–it is a very modern, up-to-date airline.)

Cost - The land cost of the trip is $2500 for a minimum of 8 people (including me). With 12 the price will drop $2200, because the fixed costs are split between more people and some discounts become availalble. This price includes Gerd’s guidance, the assistance of Astrid for the hiking part of the trip, three nights in an Oslo hotel (two at the beginning, one at the end of the trip), sightseeing and museum entries in Oslo, all lodges, all meals and transportation during the hiking portion of the trip, the hotel in Bergen, breakfast at the Oslo/Bergen hotels, the “Norwegian fellowship”dinner in Oslo, the farewell dinner in Bergen, and the train from Bergen back to Oslo. It does NOT include airfare, airport/hotel transport, lunches in Oslo and Bergen, alcoholic drinks (expensive), souvenirs, guide tips, and items of a personal nature.

A payment of $1,000 per person is required as the initial deposit. The remainder will be due May 15 and I’ll send a notice at that time. It may be necessary for me to make an adjustment (up or down) in the final trip cost at that time based on currency fluctuations. (I’m pricing the trip based on today’s exchange rate of $1.00 = 0.16 kroner. A change to 0.17 kroner per dollar means a $140 increase in the trip price.) If the price goes up by more than $100 you may cancel without penalty.

Single supplement - I hate this but it is a fact of travel life. For those of you who plan to travel alone, I will match you with a roommate if you’d like and one is available. If not, the single supplement is $250.

Cancellation policy - If I have to cancel the trip, for whatever reason, you will receive a full refund. If you cancel before May 15, I’ll return your deposit, less a $100 charge. If you have to cancel after making the final deposit, I’ll return as much as I can minus a $200 charge. I recommend you obtain trip cancellation insurance, at least for the airfare. If something were to happen to Gerd’s health, the trip might have to be cancelled or signiicantly altered.